Walking Tour of Gulangyu Island, Fujian
See Colonial Architecture on this Tourist Island near Xiamen, China
May 8, 2009
Gulangyu is an oasis of tranquility just minutes away from the hustle and bustle of Xiamen, one of China’s original Special Economic Zones. In spite of its charms, it remains relatively unknown outside of Fujian Province and less so outside of China. Laowai (foreigners) are a rare sight on the island of about 20,000 permanent residents.
This absence of foreigners stands in stark contrast to the turn of the (last) century when Gulangyu Island was an international settlement hosting a number of foreign consulates, churches and hospitals. Today it is a treasure-trove of European colonial architecture, although some of the formerly-grand mansions have been abandoned or are in need of repair.
Gulangyu translates from Chinese as Drum Wave Islet. The name comes from the sound of the waves pounding the surrounding reef when the tide comes in. Gulangyu also is known as Piano Island because of the large number of pianos owned by residents (it’s estimated that 1 in 5 homes in Gulangyu hosts a piano). China’s largest piano museum is located there.
Getting Around on Gulangyu
The best way to see this small island is on foot. It’s also almost the only way! Cars and bicycles are forbidden on the island, with exception of electric-powered tour vehicles, fire trucks and police vehicles. Freight is moved by simple hand carts, requiring 2 people to push when navigating the undulating topography.
The paved, 4km ring road offers views of the beaches on one side and Western-style bungalows with their flowers, pavilions and terraces on the other. However, those feeling more adventurous can plunge into the narrow streets that crisscross the island. Maps are available, but not really necessary as the island is so small that it’s difficult to become truly lost.
Wandering around the island, tourists encounter one charming site after another: picturesque hidden gates, modern garden mazes, abandoned villas covered with creeping vines, gardens with bamboo and banyans. For those who have tired of taking photos, a trip to the market offers fresh fruit, carvings, pearls or clothing as souvenirs of the visit.
Garden on the Sea
Gulangyu also is known as Garden on the Sea because of the many gardens that decorate the island. At the south end is Shuzhuang Garden. Designed to exist in harmony with the rolling topography, it was built as part of a private villa by a Taiwanese businessman who moved to the region with his family during the Sino-Japanese War of 1894-1895. It became a garden park open to the public in 1955, and is home to the Piano Museum.
Sunlight Rock (Riguang-yan) is the island’s highest point and offers a cool respite from summertime heat. From there the tiled roofs of the town and a panoramic view of Xiamen can be seen on one side, and the ocean on the other. At the base of Sunlight Rock is a hall built to memorialize Zheng Chenggong (Koxinga), a pirate hero and champion of the Ming cause who drove the Dutch from Taiwan in 1661.
Gulangyu is best enjoyed as a day trip from Xiamen, as accommodations on the island are limited. To learn more about Gulangyu Island check out TravelChinaGuide.com or read The National Geographic Traveler: China (2001) by Damian Harper. To sample more of the architectural delights on Gulangyu Island, see Lily Wang’s charming photo collection at amoymagic.com.
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