Visiting Amdo Tibet in China
Experience Tibetan culture in Xiahe, Langmusi and Songpan
For an authentic and off-the-beaten path view of Tibetan culture still living in China, visit these towns in Gansu and Sichuan provinces.
The Tibetan Autonomous Region (TAR) - or what most people just call Tibet - is a disputed area that has struggled for self -rule for decades. It is also a place that can be difficult to get to, foreign visitors need expensive permits and is a bit of a tourist trap let down once you actually get there. But there are still many Tibetan areas in China proper that give visitors a much better view of the culture without the tourist trappings of the TAR. Here's a look at some of the towns of Amdo Tibet.
Xiahe
A beautiful monastery town high up in the rolling green grasslands is a definite visit. The Labrang Buddhist monastery is the largest one outside of the TAR. There is a one mile prayer-wheel walk around the outside walls. Visiting inside the monastery is free but if you want to see certain temples take the English speaking tour at 10 am daily for 40 Y. Recently large tour buses assault the monastery and many rude westerners essentially turn into "paparazzi" and shove their huge cameras into the faces of the picturesque monks and cute children.
Getting there
Take the overnight train from Beijing to Lanzhou in Gansu province or Xining in Qinghai province (430 Yuan). Then take the public bus from either town to Xiahe. The bus from Xining (46.30 Y) goes through more rugged territory than from Lanzhou, duration about five hours depending on road conditions.
Langmusi
Another quaint Tibetan town with two small monasteries surrounded by high hills and nomadic grasslands. Overnight horse treks around the area are a good way to experience authentic nomadic culture because you sleep in real nomad tents. For more on these treks click here.
Getting there
Take the bus from Xiahe (40.50 Y) that travels on a well-paved road, duration about four hours.
Songpan
A walled town that is more civilized and has more hustle and bustle than Xiahe and Langmusi. The main street is paved and there are many shops. Lots of tourists descend on this town so it can feel somewhat unreal. But the town itself is interesting. You can walk around the rebuilt wall, which has four gates marking the entrances. Take a walk to the high temple above the town to really see the impressiveness of the wall. Also you can take horse treks from here, but the experiences haven't been as good as from Langmusi. The difference is that the treks only go to visit nearby sights such as the Ice Mountain and don't immerse you in Tibetan nomadic culture. These treks can also be crowded and the guides have been described as indifferent.
Getting there
Take the bus from Langmusi via Zoiige (76 Y). Songpan by bus is nine hours away from Chengdu (72 Y).
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