Panjiayuan Is Beijing's Most Popular Flea Market
Shoppers Flock to Panjiayuan for Arts & Crafts, Antiques, Souvenirs
Dec 11, 2008
Panjiayuan is an arts and crafts market, with merchandise coming from all over China. Open-air pavilions are filled with aisle upon aisle of every craft and souvenir imaginable.
Panjiayuan is located just off eastern Third Ring Road in the Jingsong district. It is sometimes called the “Dirt Market” because it had humble beginnings in a large dirt field several blocks south of the present site. Vendors would spread their wares on tarps on the ground. Prospective buyers had to lower themselves to the vendor’s level to haggle over the purchase price of an item. The Sunday-only affair was very popular with Beijingers, including ex-pats.
Panjiayuan: the Upscale Flea Market
A few years ago, Panjiayuan moved to its present site. It is positively upscale compared to the early days. The sales area is covered now, and vendors display much of their merchandise on tables and shelves. Smart shops filled with furniture and antiques surround the open-air sales area. Lattes are available for coffee lovers.
The market is now open seven days a week, with weekends having the greatest turnout of vendors. And what a turnout it is!
Artists display their works in styles ranging from traditional Chinese to modern. There’s water colors, calligraphy and oils. Chinese themes predominate.
Mao Zedong Souvenirs Abound
There’s lots of jewelry, mainly necklaces and bracelets, but also kitsch, like watches with a picture of Mao Zedong on the face. A few aisles over, minority women in native costume may be selling elaborate silver ornaments to dress up these outfits. China’s minority people make a good showing here, selling hand-embroidered handbags, jackets, placemats and the like. Some women demonstrate how to make these items between sales.
Mao-morabilia can be found everywhere at Panjiayuan. Besides watches bearing his likeness, the late chairman’s Little Red Book, which contains his sayings, and posters are for sale. When struck, red lighters bearing his likeness play “The East is Red,” a famous Chinese song.
Ceramic and porcelain items occupy several aisles. They range from tiny teacups to huge vases. Be aware that old-looking bowl may not date back to the Ming Dynasty. The Chinese have an uncanny knack of making something made five minutes ago look 500 years old. Genuine antiques will have red seals affixed to them; antiques cannot leave China unless this seal is present.
Teapots in All Sizes and Shapes
Clay teapots are popular with visitors. They come in all shapes and sizes. All the animals of the Chinese zodiac are represented. There are teapots of boats, houses and Buddha. Teapots purchased here should be used only for decoration. Inexpensive teapots such as these usually contain too much lead to be used for tea-making.
There are literally thousands of different items for sale. It is truly a something-for-everyone flea market. If it has anything to do with arts and crafts and it’s not for sale at Panjiayuan, then it probably hasn’t been made yet.
A word of caution: Vendors see dollar signs when they see foreigners, and jack up their prices sky high. Never, never pay their initial asking price. Haggling is acceptable, indeed expected at Panjiayuan. The final purchase price should come in at a third or less of the asking price. If not, move onto the next vendor who may be more eager to make the sale.
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