China's Silk Capital, Suzhou Museum & Institute
History of the Silk Trade, Double-Sided Embroidery
May 17, 2009
Silk was discovered in China around 2640 BC, a carefully guarded secret which led to a profitable trade. Later, when the Grand Canal opened trading routes towards the north, renewed prosperity came to Suzhou and the city secured its place as China’s silk capital. Initially, its fabulous garments were reserved for emperors and their suite, gloriously embroidered by gifted ladies from noble families. Silk was an art on a par with painting.
From the 14th century onwards, Suzhou’s wealth attracted many dignitaries, scholars and artists who transformed the city into a flourishing cultural centre. They built elegant mansions and gardens while top artisans weaved and embroidered for Chinese rulers and royal families across Europe.
Suzhou Silk Museum, History of the Silk Trade in China’s Silk Capital
Opened in 1991, the Suzhou Silk Museum was designed to symbolise silk, white, the dominant colour, representing its purity and the curving wall its softness and elegance. Murals and sculptures evoke the long history of the silk trade, a camel caravan, a girl picking leaves or washing raw silk, another weaving, or Lei Zu, wife of the Yellow Emperor, who taught the people to breed silkworms.
From its early days to the present times, the production and development of Chinese silk is depicted in three sections, ancient, modern and contemporary. Exhibits include traditional looms, silk fragments and garments from past dynasties, bolts of silk and modern products.
Two areas complete the picture, the rearing room where silkworms feed on mulberry leaves and spin cocoons and the workshop where weavers produce green silk and cloud brocade on ancient looms. There’s also a Ming and Qing street, lined with replicas of old silk shops.
Suzhou Silk Embroidery Research Institute, Double-Sided Embroidery
Complimented by its lovely location in a traditional garden, the Silk Embroidery Research Institute is the place to watch Suzhou’s top artists. Using the finest Chinese silk, women create exquisite embroidery for exclusive commissions or gifts for visiting dignitaries.
Most highly acclaimed is the double-sided embroidery, displayed in glass frames for both sides are equally perfect, no loose ends, no knots. This is achieved with tiny invisible stitches and a single thread, which may be split to create different shades and textures. A large item requires the work of several artists and may take up to a year to complete.
Favourite subjects include cats, birds, fish, flowers and landscapes, all shimmering in delicate life like images. Suzhou embroiderers can master up to 40 different stitches, including the modern random stitch where varying lengths and directions act like the strokes of a painter’s brush.
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